'Think globally, drink locally'

The Local
Published 06.12.02
The Local lives up to its name, offering the denizens of Ponce a comfortable atmosphere, friendly staff, and pleasing food and drink. The decor is refreshingly free of the promotional beer posters and old road signs that litter the typical working-class tavern. Instead, framed artwork hangs from the beautiful wood paneling that is almost too swanky for the space. Warehouse-style aluminum lamps dangle above the high-backed booths and suspended panels of pressed tin hang from the actual ceiling, suggesting an old pub without trying to create an artificial history for the place.

BBs are pinned under the glass of the bar that occupies one side of the room. Pull up a stool and ask Colleen to fetch you a draft. You get a 50-cent break on pints of Sweetwater or Dogwood ($3.25 vs. $3.75 for Sierra Nevada and British imports), so drink locally while at the Local. After you get your beer, put some coins in the killer jukebox and choose from among the expert selections of classic rock (Jimi Hendrix), soul (Al Green) and punk (The Cramps) CDs.

The Local has some of the best pulled pork barbecue inside the Perimeter ($6.75 for a plate that includes hush puppies, bread and two sides). A six-pack carton of condiments includes hot-vinegary red pepper, barbecue and honey mustard sauces to cover most topping preferences.

The Local is one of the few places in Atlanta where you can get authentic hot tamales, a kind of cornbread with ground beef filling steamed in cornhusks. They're served with a rich, spicy sauce and sour cream to cool the heat. Three for $2.75 are a great appetizer, while six for $5 make a meal. The Local also features ribs ($7.50 for a half-rack), pita pizzas ($3.75), burgers ($5.75), and pan-fried tilapia ($6.50), among other comfort foods.

The Local is a perfect place for happy hour. You can hang out on the front porch facing the Clermont Hotel and watch the sun set over the Midtown skyline, or escape the noise and humidity in the cool interior. There are even a couple of sofas in the niche next to the bar for that living-room-party feel. Try your hand at the popular trivia night Wednesdays, although the mixed crowd of young urbanites might be tough to beat. Whether with a group of friends at a long table or with a date in a cozy booth, you may find yourself becoming a regular at this unpretentious spot.

The Local, 758 Ponce de Leon Ave. Mon.-Sat. 5 p.m.-3 a.m.; Sun. 5 p.m.-midnight. 404-873-5002.

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