As a restaurant, Black Bear Tavern satisfies with Southern standards (garlic butter shrimp atop fried green tomatoes, corn relish, shoestring onions) and equally comforting hybrids (BBQ pork quesadilla, heaping grilled vegetables on foccacia). As a low-key bar, it's equally pleasing, with an impressive selection of nearly 50 beers including eight drafts, 50 wines available by the glass and 200 liquor choices. Those who like to mix alcohol with sharp objects can enjoy several dartboards, recessed in a well-lit alcove at the dining room's rear. A large video golf game looms over one corner of the bar for those not up for conversation.

Thursday through Saturday, tables are pulled aside and the windowed facade thrown wide to accommodate crowds for live performances. Its role as music destination is where Black Bear conflicts and confuses. On a recent evening, you might have thought you'd wandered into Decatur as Ani DiFranco and the Indigo Girls spilled through speakers onto Peachtree, while live performances range from acoustic folk to blues, jazz and rock. Just make sure you're aware of Black Bear Tavern's mild split personality and schedule ahead to suit your mood and you'll be provided a place that sets out to do a lot and doesn't come up too short.

Black Bear Tavern, 1931 Peachtree Road. Mon.-Sat. 11 a.m.-4 a.m.; Sun. 6-11 p.m. Beer $3-$4.50; wine $4.75-$12; mixed drinks $5.50-$8.50. 404-355-9089.