Joey D's Oak Room kindles a desire to hang out

Joey D's is one of Atlanta's most comfortable neighborhood drinking and dining establishments. Of course, the "neighborhood" this venerable establishment has called home for better than 15 years is unmistakably corporate. Situated in the Dunwoody area, just north of Perimeter Mall, Joey D's "neighbors" are high-rise office buildings, Fortune 500 headquarters and strip mall-based national retail chains. But don't let the surroundings fool you. The ambience and service at Joey D's is anything but corporate. Regardless of the nature of your visit -- power lunch, happy hour, mid-mall visit meal -- you can expect cozy atmosphere, attentive service and top quality grub and libations. There's also a well-stocked humidor for those who chose to partake, but smoking is only permitted in the bar area.

The clubby, oak bar nestled in the corner of the expansive space is something to behold. It features a six-tier display of nearly 600 wines, liquors and cordials. When you order a "top-shelf" elixir, don't be surprised to see the bartender scale a library ladder to grab your liquor of choice.

You can grab a domestic beer (bottle or draft) for $2.95. Imported beer runs $3.50 (bottle) $3.95 (draft). Well drinks -- Joey D's uses premium liquors in its "well" -- will set you back $4.95. If you want to get fancier, a drink with Absolut for example is $5.25, of Patron $6.25. Wines by the glass range from $3.95-$6.95. And top-shelf liquors -- your high-end single malts, tequilas, cognacs, etc. -- run $25-$75 per.

But Joey D's is as much a family restaurant as it is a bar. The bill of fare ranges from a variety of entree salads, pasta dishes and robust burgers/sandwiches (including a devourable filet mignon sandwich) to a mouthwatering carnivore's dream of ribs, steaks and chops. And you can't go wrong with Raw Oysters Absolut (a half-dozen raw oysters topped off with Joey's special cocktail sauce and Absolut Peppar Vodka , $6.95).

The crowd you'll find at Joey D's depends on your time of visit. At lunchtime, it's business types and Dunwoody housewives. Happy Hour is full of energetic networking professionals. Weekend days draw the Perimeter Mall shopping crowd and a few scattered afternoon tipplers. I like to count myself among them.

Joey D's Oak Room. 1015 Crown Pointe Parkway. Sun.-Thurs. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. (kitchen), 11 p.m. (bar) and Fri.-Sat. 11 a.m.-11 p.m. (kitchen), midnight bar. 770-512-7063. www.joeydsoakroom.com.