Replacing the strip club, One represents a new economy, where cigar-smoking women buy novelty martinis made with champagne and frozen grapes for other women stumbling into One's cavernous and glow-stick-lit environs.
The concrete abyss of the dining area sustains a healthy population of yupsters huddled over clean white candles, tablecloths, brandy snifters and bouquets of breadsticks. But venture into the bar for a smoke (the only place it's allowed) or to taste from the 14-martini menu and you may feel personal-space challenged.
The crowd can range from hyper-gregarious PR professionals to urban birthday boys out for a spare-no-expense good time on the town. This is not the destination for a quiet, intimate drink. It's about sharing space and conversation, like it or not.
Once you accept your fate as a sardine, the bar won't disappoint. Margaritas with orange juice -- the way the good Lord intended -- and classic Ketel One martinis serve the traditionalist. The Purple Haze, made of Stoli, Chambord and pineapple juice, or Lila's Black martini with Stoli Vanilla, espresso and Kahlua pave the way for creative drinks silly enough to sell but with sufficient chutzpah to survive the cocktail playground.
One Midtown Kitchen, 559 Dutch Valley Road. Mon.-Thurs. 5:30 p.m.-midnight; Fri.-Sat. 5:30 p.m.-1 a.m.; Sunday brunch 10 a.m.-3 p.m., dinner 5:30-10 p.m. Wines $3 for a half glass-$48 for a bottle. Martinis $7-$9. Bottled domestic beer $3, imports $4. 404-607-7810.
