Loading...
 

content

Restaurant Review - The Slice is Right

Pizza and martinis on Peters Street? Uh-oh. Slice sounds like the sort of place that gives me the howling fantods. I imagine skinny patrons clad in black from head to toe, chain-smoking and quaffing Cosmos, picking at $10 pizzas the size of English muffins served by a snooty staff. But how wonderfully wrong I am. Yes, Slice is brimming with warehouse chic, and it is young and hip, but it's also deliciously unpretentious. An all-glass shop front allows natural light to pour in, and high, exposed-ductwork ceilings lend a clean edge. Yet a squishy suede sectional in the corner provides a warm, living room feel. The long, blond wood bar is host to neighborhood folk who sip beers and enjoy large, floppy slices of 'za.

Meager, not mystical: The martini end of Slice appears to have been axed early on. Except for the lack of a drinks list ("We just updated it again and haven't gotten it printed yet," our server explained), Slice has the cool 'n' cheap concept nailed down. The simple menu means service that is commendably smooth for a 6-week-old restaurant. However, some items should be axed altogether. An appetizer called "Kim's Mystical Mushrooms" is overpriced at $6 for seven stuffed mushrooms reminiscent (although not in a bad way) of Pizza Rolls. Gooey with mozzarella, bits of pepperoni and tomato sauce, the teeny caps are presented on a skillet so large the already small portion seems stingy.

Go for the pie: The chicken parmesan sandwich ($6) is an open-faced disappointment, with cutlets so dry and overwhelmed by tomato sauce that it's hard to distinguish meat from bread. The cappicola and salami in the cold, pick-your-fillings sandwich ($6) are top-shelf tasty, but the hoagie bun they're wedged into looks like someone sat on it. Lasagna ($8.25) is a build-it-yourself, vegetarian friendly option. Smothered with cheese and sloppy with marinara, the piping-hot pasta dish is red-sauce satisfying. But with good, cheap pizza as an alternative, why bother?

A pizza by any other name: Starting at $8.50 for a 12-inch, and $11 for a 16-inch pie, the pizzas are a great value and delicious eating. Despite names that are more about inside jokes than the appetite ("Raging Agee" sounds like an ailment that necessitates penicillin), specialty pizzas are even cheaper than choosing toppings, which range from 65 cents to $1.25. "Not So Plain Jane" ($11.50) with pepperoni, black olives and the hottest banana peppers on Earth, delights pizza traditionalists. Although the abundance of toppings leaves the otherwise chewy, golden crust soggy toward the middle, the slices nonetheless disappear as quickly as they're served. A pizza we load with artichoke hearts, fresh baby spinach and green olives ($10.85) is pleasantly piquant. Tiramisu (what else?) and Oreo cheesecake are offered for dessert, but they aren't house-made, so we opt out.

Knowing the tab will be wonderfully small, we feel free to end the evening with another ice-cold PBR. Even with generous rounds of cocktails, Slice is one of our cheapest nights out by far. But it doesn't feel cheap at all. In fact, it feels pretty darn cool.



More By This Writer

Article

Wednesday October 19, 2005 12:04 am EDT
Although month-old Rice Box does a brisk takeout and delivery business, its cheerful, comfortable interior does make for a pleasant dining-in experience, as long as whimsical modern furnishings and lighting is your thing. Bright orange and stark white dominates the color scheme while a glowing neon sign lights both the dining room and the sidewalk out front. A long, high bar trolls along one... | more...

Article

Wednesday October 12, 2005 12:04 am EDT

"Are they there yet? Are they there yet?"

Like kids trapped backseat in a cross-country car trip, Atlanta's east-siders have been whining for the past few months while driving past the tantalizing but not quite up and running Kirkwood Aces Bar & Grille. Located next door to the Sweet Java Brown cafe (the first hospitality establishment to put up shop in the slowly gentrifying bar and...

| more...

Article

Wednesday October 5, 2005 12:04 am EDT
I had no idea how much I liked bubble tea until I discovered how hard it is to find them the way I like them (fruity, no milk, with cubed, not crushed, ice) anywhere close to where I live or work. On one of several fruitless outings to perpetually closed Jinhuchan Tea in Buford Highway's Orient Center strip mall, I finally noticed the large laminated photo of a rainbow assortment of boba teas... | more...

Article

Wednesday September 14, 2005 12:04 am EDT
A friend who likes almost everything about pubs — the wide selection of beers, the burgers and battered fish that pad the belly, the atmosphere ideal for quiet conversations during the day and fall-off-your-barstool raucous come evening — says she hates actual pubs. Doggy-smelling old carpet grosses her out. Cave-like interiors render her claustrophobic. It's no wonder that... | more...

Article

Wednesday September 7, 2005 12:04 am EDT
"Watch those fingers!" I warn my friend Todd, whose hands are in my fork's trajectory. Although everything we've ordered at Champs is lick-the-plate and suck-on-your-fingers delicious, the butter-tender brisket is the heavyweight champion of the evening. And you'd think the bones never had meat on them from the way I've polished off my rack of ribs, but I'm still attacking his dinner as if I... | more...
Search for more by Cynthia Wong

[Admin link: Restaurant Review - The Slice is Right]