Loading...
 

content

Food Issue - A look at the servers, sous chefs, bartenders and restaurants that make Atlanta delicious

In 1998, as I perched on the edge of my mother's bed, she declared that I was lost. That I had no direction. That all I did was wait tables.

I was 22, living in Chapel Hill, N.C., immersed in the restaurant life. I had not yet been to college, and I had no plans to go (although eventually I did).

"You waited tables in your 20s, too," I protested.

"Yes," she said, "but I did other things. I was always involved in something. Politics. Art. I always had a passion. I was always interested in something."

"I am interested," I said, "in waitresses. I am interested in cooks."

Thirteen years later, I am still interested in waitresses and cooks.

Today, I review restaurants, but I never stopped being in love with the industry and its people. I stand for the customer, yes, but I also stand for the industry, for all the chefs who sweat 80 hours a week then go out to eat and wish every restaurant had the guts and soul they try to imbue in their own food. Ever eat out with a cook? You will never find a tougher critic.

That's why this year's Food Issue is all about that industry — not about the eating so much as the working. It's dedicated to the folks who make this thing run rather than the pretty food we get as consumers. I love that food, but we have 51 food sections a year discussing it. This issue is about the cooks and bartenders and waiters who make it happen. Appropriately, the issue was partially inspired by a waitress, and much of it is written by her: Stephanie Dazey, my intern this semester, who came up with so many good industry-themed story ideas that I decided to have her write a few and build this issue around them.

If it weren't for these folks — the cooks, the waitresses, the bartenders, the chefs — we wouldn't have anything to rhapsodize and write about. This one's for them. — Besha Rodell



More By This Writer

Article

Friday November 17, 2017 06:57 pm EST

Our favorite hometown honky bitch, author Hollis Gillespie, came up with "The 5 Absolute Worst Thanksgiving Day Dishes" for her Shocking Real Life Writing Academy newsletter. Now we all have our own weird little food quirks, but very few sound as unappetizing as Thanksgiving sushi. Thanksgiving sushi? Really? That's just gross.

1. Bacon Mug: This is a giant mug made of fried bacon and filled...

| more...

Article

Wednesday July 19, 2017 08:09 pm EDT
ATL entrepreneurs and the spaces they call HQ | more...

Article

Thursday February 16, 2017 11:47 am EST
The founder of fourofour combines local artists, e-commerce and entrepreneurship | more...

Article

Thursday September 8, 2016 09:00 am EDT
Twain's Brewpub and Billiards' Executive Chef makes a satisfying and affordable meatless meal | more...

Article

Wednesday August 3, 2016 04:30 pm EDT

image-1
While the Hawaiian alphabet only has 12 letters, five vowels and seven consonants, dishes with Hawaiian flair can leave you scratching your head. Yet the Hawaiians are on to something when it comes to BBQ, creating the most tender and moist pork using to the islands’ traditional kālua (KA-lua) baking method.

Waikikie Hawaiian BBQ (2160 Braircliff Road,...

| more...
Search for more by Stephanie Dazey

[Admin link: Food Issue - A look at the servers, sous chefs, bartenders and restaurants that make Atlanta delicious]